Why Two Clients Needed Five Strand Tests
Many clients assume that if two people want a similar colour result, the process to achieve it will also be similar.
In reality, hair history, condition, natural base level, and existing colour can all influence the final recommendation.
Recently, two clients attended colour consultations at THE TRUTH IN COLOUR® with goals centred around richer copper and red tones.
Although the desired results appeared similar at first glance, five separate strand tests were required to understand how each client's hair would respond before creating the final colour plans.
This is exactly why strand testing remains one of the most valuable consultation tools we use.
Why We Test Before We Colour
A strand test allows us to observe how real hair behaves before a colour service begins.
Rather than relying on assumptions, strand testing provides evidence.
It helps us assess:
• lifting behaviour
• underlying pigment
• colour deposit
• tonal development
• processing response
• predictability
Every head of hair has a unique history.
Even when two clients want a similar result, the route to achieve that result may be completely different.
Client One: Existing Red Colour Required Investigation
The first client already had an existing red colour present within the hair.
The inspiration images showed a brighter copper-red direction.
Before selecting a final formula, we needed to understand how much of the existing red could be removed and what underlying tones would remain after cleansing.
Two strand tests were prepared and both were initially cleansed using:
• Igora Vario Blond Plus
• low developer
• 30 minutes processing time
The hair was checked after 20 minutes, but there was still too much remaining red pigment present.
The strand tests continued processing for the full 30 minutes before further evaluation.
Testing The Copper Direction
Following the cleansing process, two colour formulas were tested.
Strand Test One
• Igora Royal 6-77
• developer
Strand Test Two
• Igora Royal 8-77
• developer
Both processed for the full 35 minutes.
Although the results moved closer to the desired direction, there was still more red influence than the inspiration images suggested.
To investigate further, both strands were cleansed again for an additional 20 minutes before being retested.
This allowed us to evaluate how the hair could move closer to the desired copper result while maintaining realistic expectations.
The testing also identified the possibility of balancing the final result using Igora Vibrance 9-7 with a specific developer if additional tonal refinement became necessary.
Client Two: Dark Natural Base With A Vibrant Red Goal
The second client presented a completely different technical challenge.
Although the desired result was also red-based, the starting point was a naturally darker base with inspiration images showing a vibrant red to burgundy finish.
Rather than removing existing colour, the challenge here was determining how best to create brightness and vibrancy from a darker natural starting point.
This required multiple testing approaches before a recommendation could be made.
Testing Fashion Lights
The first stage involved testing Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Royal Fashion Lights.
These specialist shades are designed to provide lift and colour deposit simultaneously, making them particularly useful on darker natural bases.
Strand Test One
• Igora Royal L-88
• developer
Strand Test Two
• Igora Royal L-89
• developer
These tests allowed us to compare how each Fashion Lights formula behaved against the client's desired result.
Testing A Pre-Lighten And Tone Approach
An alternative strategy was also explored.
Two additional strand tests were first pre-lightened using:
• Igora Vario Blond Plus
• developer
Once the desired lift was achieved, both strands were toned using different formulations.
Strand Test Three
• Igora Vibrance 5-88
• developer
Strand Test Four
• Igora Vibrance 7-88
• 4% developer
This process allowed us to compare a Fashion Lights approach against a pre-lighten and tone approach before recommending the most suitable route.
Similar Goals. Different Plans.
Both clients wanted richer copper and red tones.
However, the strand tests quickly demonstrated that the technical approach required for each client was very different.
One client's testing focused on removing existing red influence and refining the tone.
The other client's testing focused on achieving sufficient lift and vibrancy from a darker natural base.
Without testing, these differences would have been far more difficult to predict accurately.
Why Strand Tests Matter
Five strand tests may seem excessive.
For us, they are simply part of building safe and predictable colour plans.
Every strand test provides information that helps us make better decisions, protect the integrity of the hair, and create realistic expectations before a colour service begins.
This is why consultations at THE TRUTH IN COLOUR® focus on understanding how the hair behaves rather than relying on assumptions.
Thinking About A Colour Change?
Previous colour history, natural base level, hair condition, and desired result can all influence the final colour plan.
Sometimes the safest and most predictable route begins with testing before colouring.
A strand test can provide valuable information long before colour is applied to the full head of hair.
